People often ask me why I like roasted goose when goose meat is one of the known triggers for allergic reactions, according to traditional Chinese medicine.
Others would comment about my age — a middle-aged man like me should not take in fatty poultry.
To be frank, I do eat less roasted goose. However, it is not because I fear an early death. Still, I would rather hear fewer reminders like this.
Since I can’t eat roasted goose that often, it is important to choose the best in town.
If I were to rank poultry, geese are superior to chickens and ducks. Roasted goose has a unique, exotic taste. There is no way roasted duck can replicate it.
Besides, the texture of goose meat excels and it is much finer and softer than that of duck.
Although there are fundamental differences between geese and ducks, unscrupulous sellers would still risk offering roasted duck as roasted goose as the latter could be charged at a heftier price. Customers have to watch out whether the restaurant is honest or not.
Recently, I learned that there is an outlet in Shau Kei Wan that offers lovely roasted geese. I was quite bewildered. How could I have not heard of it when I have been working in the neighborhood for quite a while.
Seeing is believing. I visited the place over the weekend to see if Sun Kwong Roasted Goose Restaurant could be added to my starred list. Also, I wanted to know how good their siu mei offerings are
In the old days, people often spoke highly of Sam Tseng, Tuen Mun, or Yung Kee Restaurant. On Hong Kong Island, there are a few more notable choices like Yat Lok Restaurant in Central, Po Kee in Western District, Heping Restaurant in North Point and Yuen Hing Restaurant in Quarry Bay.
I was relieved to find that Sun Kwong is a new shop. No wonder I had not tried this place before. Presented at the shop front were freshly roasted fatty geese with crispy skin. My mouth watered right away.
The siu mei set meals featuring roasted goose were all very tempting, particularly the deluxe combo rice dish of five choices, which included roasted goose, marinated chicken, barbecued pork, red sausage and salted egg. But there was a trade-off: you could not expect to have many slices of the goose with the desired cuts.
That’s why I went for the perfect pair of roasted goose leg with lai fun — a kind of glutinous rice noodles. The noodles tasted great as each strip was full of goose oil and meat juice. The poultry — be it goose or chicken — had to be slightly fatty for roasting or deep-frying.
Sun Kwong’s roast goose was great in terms of both the meat and the crispy skin. The subcutaneous fat of the poultry made for such a perfect roast. But if you do not want too much fat, you can cut out the fatty layer before eating the juicy meat.
This article appeared in the Hong Kong Economic Journal on July 26
Translation by John Chui
[Chinese version 中文版]
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