19 August 2017

Leung Ka-kuen

a veteran journalist and food critic
  • Chanterelle is one of the four fungi featured in fine western dining. It is known for its rarity and difficulty in preserving its unique umami. Photo: Wikimedia

    Delicate wild chanterelle mushrooms from Austria

    - Aug 11, 2017 5:31pm
    Staring at a big box of chanterelles freshly hand-carried by my friend from a trip to Austria, I could not help but ask myself what to do with them. Do they go with heavy cream or...
  • South Taiwan Comfort, near New Praya in Kennedy Town, is a cozy food joint offering authentic Taiwan cuisine and hospitality. Photo: Eunice/Open Rice

    A taste of Tainan in Kennedy Town

    - Aug 4, 2017 5:31pm
    Last Saturday I took up the role of a Chinese wedding master – traditionally performed by a woman – for a former female colleague. Both families were impressed but the pleasure was all mine. It was...
  • Sun Kwong Roasted Goose Restaurant offers some of the best roasted goose dishes but there's a tradeoff --  you cannot expect to have many slices of the goose with the desired cuts.. Photo: Facebook

    A new outlet added to my roadmap for roasted goose

    - Aug 4, 2017 5:31pm
    People often ask me why I like roasted goose when goose meat is one of the known triggers for allergic reactions, according to traditional Chinese medicine. Others would comment about my age — a middle-aged man...
  • Kan Kee Vegetarian Food at Bowrington Road Market and Cooked Food Centre attracts quite a lot of devoted diners, including celebrities. Photo: HKEJ

    Genuine veggie dishes from Kan Kee

    - Jul 21, 2017 6:01pm
    Looking at myself in the mirror, I couldn’t help but wonder if my current physique is the inevitable destiny of a middle-aged man or the result of accumulating years of experience as a food critic. Apart from...
  • Fresh sashimi directly sourced from Japan and corn from Hokkaido, served raw, has glutinous texture and unique aroma. Photos: HKEJ

    Supreme dinner at Nine Seafood Place in Whampoa

    - Jul 14, 2017 5:35pm
    For the past few months, I was busy working on my latest book so that I can deliver it in time and have it showcased at the 2017 Hong Kong Book Fair, which will open next...
  • Kam Fung's congee is known for genuine, fresh ingredients. Chinese doughnut in rice rolls is another signature dish. Long queues outside the tiny eatery are testimony to the quality of the food. Photos: HKEJ

    Congee from Kam Fung: Same old good taste

    - Jul 7, 2017 5:30pm
    On July 1, as I was watching the swearing-in ceremony of Carrie Lam and her ministers on television, my family members urged me to take them out for breakfast. On such trips, we normally take cha...
  • New Chinese restaurants at the Happy Valley Racecourse have been rolling out fusion dishes and authentic provincial delicacies. Photos: HKJC, HKEJ

    Impressive Chinese provincial dishes

    - Jun 30, 2017 5:32pm
    Although I am not a big fan of horse racing, I visit Happy Valley racecourse from time to time for various events and banquets. I especially enjoy gossiping around and dreaming of winning. Anyway, regardless of...
  • Beyond Beef, which is 100 percent pea protein, has become popular in the United States. Photo: Green Common

    It looks and tastes like real beef, but a lot healthier

    - Jun 23, 2017 5:32pm
    As I reach middle age, I get more health-conscious and try to improve my diet by eating a lot of vegetables. But I feel that I am just deceiving myself when it comes to Chinese-style vegetarian food....
  • Watching the Japanese ramen masters prepare your favorite noodles before you savor them is an enjoyable treat in itself. Photos: HKEJ

    Admiring the culinary skills of ramen chefs

    - Jun 16, 2017 5:37pm
    Just recently hotel tycoon Chan Chung-fan called me up to ask if I was interested in joining him on a visit to Ginza. Chan is a romantic guy who does whatever he thinks of doing. Once...
  • It's heavenly to savor beef in seven styles and sauces without burning a big hole in your pocket. Photos: Delicieuxpate/HKEJ

    Bò 7 Món in Ho Chi Minh City

    - Jun 9, 2017 5:30pm
    After spending the first two days and nights in the port city of Vung Tau during my recent trip to Vietnam, I headed back to Ho Chi Minh City. Known previously as Saigon, the former capital...
  • We had an unforgettable feast of seafood delights at  Vung Tau. Photo: Wiens

    Seafood feast at Vung Tau

    - Jun 2, 2017 5:30pm
    Over the weekend I flew to Vietnam for a little rest and relaxation, and also to meet friends and enjoy good food. From the airport, I drove straight to Vung Tau, leaving the busy Ho Chi...
  • Only a licensed chef is allowed to prepare fugu, or pufferfish, to ensure that the toxins in its internal organs do not contaminate the meat. As a dish, it is served as sashimi or hotpot. Photo: WeChat

    Fugu: The wilder, the more dangerous, the more delicious

    - May 26, 2017 5:32pm
    As I weaved through the stalls of Kuromon Ichiba Market in Osaka, I found it hard to resist sampling the various snacks on offer, and soon enough my stomach was so full that I could barely...
  • Kuzumochi are transparent or cloudy white mochi cakes that are made of kuzuko and have a similar texture like konnyaku jelly. It's considered a healthy snack in Japan. Photo: HKEJ

    Enjoying kuzumochi at Mount Yoshino

    - May 19, 2017 6:00pm
    Friends of mine, one after another, have been luring me into joining their hiking trips in Japan in recent years. Their reasons for going there are endless — enchanting trails, breathtaking scenery, excellent security, good food,...
  • Ippudo, a Japanese restaurant in Causeway Bay, is a safe bet when you are looking for authentic Japanese ramen. Photos: HKEJ, Yesun

    A bowl of the unexpected

    - May 12, 2017 3:31pm
    One night, since I had to work until 9 p.m. at the office in Causeway Bay, I decided to treat myself to a bowl of ramen first.  There must be dozens of Japanese-style eateries along Sharp Street...
  • Conch soup and conch slices are particularly popular in Hong Kong and Guangdong province, with tjeir  tender texture and aroma. Photos: HKEJ

    Conch slices that you shouldn’t miss

    - May 5, 2017 5:30pm
    The first and last time I tried giant conch slices in a restaurant was in Chaoshan in Guangdong province. I thought it would be cheaper in mainland China but the dish turned out as costly as...
  • This Izakaya in Sapporo features fusion cuisine like shrimp toast with the toast made from minced fish. Photos: HKEJ

    Impressive shrimp toast at a Sapporo izakaya

    - Apr 21, 2017 5:35pm
    An old classmate of mine, who learned of my trip to Hokkaido, warned me against taking other members of my tour group – especially ladies, kids and the elderly –  to an izakaya, which is a type...
  • Abalones from Japan are sublime, while those from South Africa come at a lower price yet the taste make them a real bargain. Photo: HKEJ

    What really makes the difference in an abalone dish

    - Apr 14, 2017 5:30pm
    Paul, known as “the Thai culture expert” in Hong Kong media, is an amiable, carefree chap who often volunteers to help local reporters in matters concerning Thailand. In a recent visit to the city, Paul invited...
  • The best croissants are made of genuine Japanese flour and baked immediately when the dough is pretty smooth and ingredients are fully incorporated. Photo: Mandy Lui

    The best way to enjoy your croissant

    - Mar 24, 2017 7:01pm
    Last week I stepped into a Saint Honore cake shop to grab and go with my recent favorite – a coconut bun. But it’s the croissants that caught my attention: each one has a note that...
  • There are two Venchi chocolate stores in Hong Kong, one in Central and the other in Tsim Sha Tsui. Hot chocolate freshly brewed in Italy, Venchi's home country, still tastes better. Photos: Venchi

    Silky Italian hot chocolate

    - Mar 24, 2017 5:30pm
    At a market in Bologna in northern Italy, we were greeted with the word “Venchi” on a sign board. “I want a full cup of choco,” I said to the group. It was important to stay...
  • Two trays of sea snails from a seafood stall in Sam Shing Estate in Tuen Mun. Which tastes better, the light-colored shells or the dark ones? Photo: HKEJ

    The Temple Street of my youth

    - Mar 10, 2017 5:31pm
    My generation is probably the last to have seen the prime of dai daat dei or poor man’s nightclub. The 1950s could be considered the golden age of the night market, where stalls sold all sorts of...

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