Go high or go low? That is the question
2024春夏男裝潮流，我們談一談腰線問題。基本上高腰線成為大勢，Jonathan Anderson的Loewe、Rick Owens和Prada（無論長或短褲），都走向高腰，當中以Loewe最為誇張，令人想起已故國家主席江澤民的梗圖（meme），高到去肋骨的最下端位置，上身與下身比例去到近乎3:7，身形普通的人穿上都馬上變長腿先生。另一邊廂，Dolce & Gabbana和Miu Miu夾住Y2K的餘溫，卻繼續支持低腰剪裁，Miu Miu繼之前的各式內褲後，今季露出的是單色speedo尼龍三角泳褲（畢竟是女裝，男生穿上後應該很不舒服吧？），Z 世代為之着迷。
TEXT BY CHRIS LAI
從1890年代開始的新古典主義服飾美學，就奠定了往後盛行不衰的理想男裝輪廓，大膊高腰長腿，宛如古希臘雕像凹凸有致的體形。據說是因為拿破崙軍隊的制服採用大衣和高腰設計，用意是為了讓他的軍隊看起來更高大、更具威脅性。直至1990年代的 Hip hop 次文化，才首次令低腰牛仔褲成為潮流，CK Jeans 因而賺了一大筆；然後是 Alexander McQueen 1996 年秋冬「Bumster」系列的絕世低腰露股褲（前面當然已見恥毛），將反叛性感推向高峰，接下來的 Y2K就是從John Galliano的Dior到Blumarine都全部跟住走。20年後，低腰風潮由Courrèges的Nicolas Di Felice和Ludovic de Saint Sernin等蒲精帶回潮流前線。
由於各種原因，筆者一早就站在低腰派的對面。
1980年代生於中國南方的男生，營養遠不如今天的豐富，長得過1米7已經要還神，還要祈禱腳不要長得太短不要五五身形。萬幸你不是太肥，只須穿上高腰褲都馬上拉長腿部線條，令你看上去或拍照時（數碼世界就是新現實）高出幾厘米。
另一個令筆者愛煞高腰褲的原因，就是它給予的安全感。曾經以24吋腰聞名的小鳳姐曾言，穿衣服要剛剛貼身才有安全感；對於偏瘦的筆者而言，略為鬆身和低腰的褲子馬上有甩褲的危險感，不是怕攝在褲內的襯衫「啡」出來，就是怕褲腳愈來愈拖地，總之周身唔聚財，哪怕是有皮帶都有一種難以言喻的焦慮。
還是高腰褲好，除了Loewe和Prada，Dries Van Noten、Fendi、英國新貴SS Daley等一眾品味高雅的品牌都有供應新品。如果是闊腳剪裁，通常腰身還有打褶，布料都要用多一些。筆者最常穿的幾條高腰褲不是來自男裝品牌，而是OldCeline，長青的色調和剪裁每天都能穿。DanielLee時代都買過一批BV闊褲，但大部分得個有型，布料實在太硬，無論走動或是坐下都很不舒服，還是Phoebe Philo 犀利！如果預算不足，Zara x Studio Nicholson的牛仔褲也抵買，質素媲美The Row。
在腰線剪裁的問題上，不知道你的選擇又是什麼呢？
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