WATCHES & WONDERS 2024︰GRAND SEIKO東灜景色
日本的製錶翹楚精工(SEIKO),其精煉工藝早已令瑞士製錶大腕心服口服,其腕錶特色往往將當地風景名勝和天然景點,與錶盤結合全新模製圖案及不同色調,展現出東灜宏偉而神秘的景色;今年也不例外。
TEXT BY LAWRENCE YU
PHOTO BY 韋梏
Sport SBGC275
廣大的穗高岳連峰聳立於日本中部的信州地區,是Grand Seiko Spring Drive機芯的生產地。今年是9R Spring Drive機芯誕生20周年,為慶祝這個里程碑,品牌特別設計以夏季山景為靈感的全新Spring Drive Chronograph GMT腕錶。品牌以「多層光學鍍膜」(Optical Multilayer Coating)專利錶盤鍍膜技術製作出變化色調錶盤,呈現這一瞬間的光線變化。有別於傳統的錶盤上色技術,新技術採用了PVD工藝。多層光學薄膜令錶盤隨着觀看角度而呈現不同的色澤。加上滑動的秒針,錶盤顏色的變化將Nature of Time時間本質的概念提升到全新境界全新腕錶的每個細節都可見雄獅的蹤影,例如錶殼的稜角、採用髮絲紋理打磨,形似爪子的錶耳,與超鏡面研磨的表面構成絕佳對比效果。腕錶搭載Spring Drive Chronograph GMT9R96機芯,是9R86機芯的進階版本。
Evolution 9 SLGW003 Grand Seiko
今年最令人驚訝的是回歸「手上鍊」之舉。品牌於60至70年代的手動上鍊10-beat腕錶以追求更高的穩定性和精準度為目標。暌違50多年後,今年宣布推出全新手動上鍊高振頻機芯:9SA4。9SA4是9S系列的第三款新一代雙脈衝機芯。此系列於2020年推出自動上鍊9SA5機芯,接着是去年的Tentagraph腕錶所搭載的9SC5計時碼錶機芯;高效雙脈衝擒縱系統與雙發條盒令全新9SA4機芯的性能緊貼9SA5機芯,每秒振動10次,並在滿鍊時提供80小時動力儲存。水晶背蓋欣賞到發條擋如同雀鳥啄鑿的動作。加上靈感來自雫石川的精細機芯裝飾,9SA4機芯不僅展示Grand Seiko機械 製錶工藝的精髓,更捕捉到工坊周遭自然環境之美。
Evolution 9 SLGH021
日本的嚴美溪谷位於岩手縣磐井川的中游,是Grand Seiko機械腕錶的生產地。 其錶盤結合全新模製圖案及淺綠色調,展現出嚴美溪谷宏偉而神秘的景色。錶 殼和錶鏈均採用世界上最高耐腐蝕性不鏽鋼——亮麗鋼(Ever-Brilliant Steel)製 成。這是Evolution 9系列中首款採用這種材質的型號。亮麗鋼散發出的白光與錶盤亮麗的綠色互相輝映,亮麗鋼比一般高級腕錶所使用的不鏽鋼具有更高的耐腐蝕性(亮麗鋼是世界上具最高耐腐蝕性的材質),並閃耀着亮白的光芒。機芯9SA5機芯使用高效的雙脈衝擒縱系統和雙發條盒,即使振動達每小時36,000次,腕錶滿鍊時也可運作約80小時。
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