Writing the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
In perfect harmony with its retrospective exhibitions, Van Cleef & Arpels has long been known for publishing exquisite volumes. Now, in a groundbreaking move, Nicolas Bos, President and CEO of the prestigious maison, has set the stage for an elegant tribute to the heritage of Van Cleef & Arpels. Drawing inspiration from the iconic creations born in the early 1970s, Bos has decided to compile the maison's classic masterpieces into a monumental collection. Thus, The Van Cleef & Arpels Collection will be presented in two captivating volumes. The first, scheduled for release in 2024, will span the years 1906 to 1953, while the second will cover the period from 1954 to 2000.
The books delve into the evolution of the maison’s jewelry, from its ever-changing forms and styles to its groundbreaking innovations. Each chapter serves as an exploration of Van Cleef & Arpels’ endless artistic journey, illustrating how the house’s creativity and craftsmanship have continually redefined itself over the decades. Through a detailed analysis of the collection’s evolution, the volumes reveal how the maison's iconic works have remained timeless, inspiring generations of artisans and leaving an indelible mark on the world of high jewelry.
TEXT BY MIU LAU
At the heart of this meticulously crafted volume lies the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, a legacy that traces its origins to the early 1970s. It all began with Jacques Arpels, who embarked on an ambitious journey to acquire a wealth of the house's iconic past masterpieces, determined to preserve the essence of its jewelry style for future generations. To amass these invaluable antique treasures, the maison tirelessly scoured international markets, acquiring pieces from auctions, dealers, and private collectors.
Today, the collection remains true to its original vision, continuing to serve as both a homage to the brand's storied past and a source of inspiration for contemporary jewelry design. With over 2,700 exquisite pieces, the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection now includes not only high jewelry, but also watches, and rare objets d'art—each one a testament to the enduring craftsmanship and innovation that defines the maison.
Jewelry included in the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection is meticulously selected by the maison’s experts in the Patrimony Department. Each piece stands out for its creativity, historical significance, or the identity and status of its previous owner, while adhering to strict acquisition policies to ensure the authenticity of the collection. As such, documentation is an essential cornerstone in the selection process. Furthermore, before being incorporated into the collection, all pieces undergo a thorough inspection, with necessary restoration and cleaning carried out, all while preserving the traces of time that reflect their historical depth.
In the monograph, these iconic Van Cleef & Arpels Collection jewels are compiled in an encyclopedic format. Written by the maison’s art historians and the heads of the Patrimony Department, the book offers a multifaceted interpretation, presenting a wealth of scholarly essays that reconstruct historical contexts, detailed reports on significant pieces, illustrations, and scientific texts addressing specific themes.
The first volume of the book takes readers on a journey through the origins of the house, spanning from 1906 to 1953, and divides its history into distinct phases. This includes three key chapters: "The Burst of Creativity (1906-1925)", "A Unique Identity (1926-1937)", and "From Paris to New York (1938-1953)". Highlighting approximately 700 pieces of jewelry, rare treasures, and timepieces from this period, as well as 200 archival documents, the book immerses the reader in a rich and diverse collection of works that explore form and aesthetics, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship behind each creation.
This volume offers an intimate look into the creative world of Van Cleef & Arpels, revealing the artistic and cultural landscape of the first half of the 20th century. With a profound focus on both art and history, it stands as an essential reference in the world of jewelry artistry, cementing the house’s place in the annals of art and craft history.
Chapter One: The Rise of Creativity (1906-1925)
In 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique at 22 Place Vendôme, marking the beginning of a legacy that would define the brand's prestigious place on the square for the next two decades. Over this time, the house solidified its reputation through bespoke commissions from elite clients and its involvement in the grandest events of high jewelry. Among the standout pieces of the era was the Rose and White Rose Entrelacs Bracelet, a popular open bangle style in the early 1920s, which captured the profound influence of the Art Deco movement on the house's design language. This bracelet was part of a jewelry set unveiled by Van Cleef & Arpels at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, where it won the prestigious Grand Prix in the jewelry category.
Chapter One concludes in 1925, a pivotal year in art history that witnessed the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris—ushering in the golden age of Art Deco. The fair celebrated French decorative arts and its diverse aesthetic interpretations, serving as a crucial turning point for the Art Deco movement. Van Cleef & Arpels was also an active participant in this monumental event, further cementing its place within the era's vibrant artistic landscape.
Chapter Two: A Unique Identity (1926-1937)
In 1926, Renée Puissant, the daughter of the founders, was appointed Artistic Director of Van Cleef & Arpels. Under her guidance, the house was emboldened to create original pieces with distinctive styles, perfectly in tune with the evolving Art Deco movement. Iconic designs such as the Circle brooch (1930), Minaudière evening case (1933), Ludo bracelet (1934), and Cadenas wristwatch (1935) exemplified the brand’s bold and innovative spirit. The Peony brooch, a masterpiece of creativity and technique, defined the zenith of jewelry craftsmanship in the 1930s. This period of groundbreaking artistry was officially celebrated at the International Exposition of Art and Technology in Modern Life in Paris in 1937, marking the conclusion of the second chapter.
Chapter Three: From Paris to New York (1938-1953)
This chapter marks the era when Van Cleef & Arpels expanded its legacy across the Atlantic. Following the 1937 Paris World Expo, the house took its first steps toward establishing a permanent presence in the United States at the 1939 New York World’s Fair. During the 1940s, Van Cleef & Arpels opened subsidiaries, and several family members were stationed in America, further solidifying the brand's foothold on the global stage. Among the many groundbreaking creations showcased at the 1939 New York World's Fair, the Passe-Partout jewelry collection stood out. Boldly combining traditional naturalistic floral motifs with modern functionality, it rewrote the rules of jewelry design. Patented in 1938, the Passe-Partout (the "all-purpose jewelry") lived up to its name with its versatile, shape-shifting nature.
The first volume concludes in 1953, a year pivotal for Van Cleef & Arpels. In 1954, the "La Boutique" concept was introduced, marking a transformative moment in the house's creative history. The full story behind this groundbreaking development will be explored in the second volume of The Van Cleef & Arpels Collection.
(Van Cleef & Arpels Collection)
(Van Cleef & Arpels Collection)
Interview with Nicolas Bos, Chairman and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels
In an exclusive conversation, Nicolas Bos shares his insights on the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, a monumental project that began in the early 1970s with the goal of preserving the heritage of the iconic house. He reveals, "The collection was born from the ambition to gather the house's masterpieces into a single, lasting archive, and it has since grown, consistently sparking intrigue and admiration. This collection represents not only a tribute to our legacy but also the ongoing evolution of our expertise. With over 2,700 pieces, it reflects the diverse sources of inspiration, materials, and techniques that have defined Van Cleef & Arpels over the years." The collection, Bos explains, is the culmination of dedicated work by the Patrimony department and is presented in the book as a catalogue raisonné, offering an in-depth exploration of the house's most celebrated works.
What makes this book truly unique is its rare, scientific approach to understanding jewelry, marking a departure from the traditional methods of analysis. "We have organized the collection based on the creative context of each piece," says Bos, "which aligns with our mission to reposition jewelry as a true form of decorative art." This philosophy is further exemplified by Van Cleef & Arpels' initiatives, such as the opening of L'ÉCOLE, the School of Jewelry Arts, in 2012, and the long-term collaboration with the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Bos explains, "Jewelry is not an isolated art form; it is deeply intertwined with other disciplines, feeding off the energy of architecture, fashion, and design. It holds a critical place in the grand narrative of the decorative arts."
The first volume of the book, set for release in 2024, will cover the years 1906 to 1953, while the second volume will span from 1954 to 2000. Bos notes the thoughtful structure of this division: "The timeline in these two volumes corresponds with key turning points in the history of Van Cleef & Arpels. The opening of the first boutique at 22 Place Vendôme in 1906 marked the birth of the brand, and the introduction of the 'La Boutique' concept in 1954 revolutionized the jewelry industry. It reflected the post-war shift in social and fashion norms, appealing to a younger, more dynamic audience. The 2000s marked another milestone with the return of themed high jewelry collections, heralding a new era of creativity."
The first volume will feature the iconic 1936 Flower brooch, which embodies the art deco style and uses the patented Mystery Set technique, a groundbreaking innovation of the house. Bos remarks, "This Flower brooch, one of the earliest examples of the Mystery Set, demonstrates the sophisticated artistry of Van Cleef & Arpels. It was a natural choice for the cover of the first volume, as we had just acquired it for the collection."
As for the eagerly anticipated second volume, which will focus on the second half of the 20th century, Bos reveals, "The team of experts in the Patrimony department, alongside our art historians, have been delving deep into the creative trajectory of that period. The archives are a treasure trove of information, but we also conduct thorough research in public databases, libraries, and museums, especially in France. It’s a time-consuming endeavor, but we expect the second volume to be ready in about two years."
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