I still remember vividly when I first met Brother Hin 20 years ago, he was selling congee and noodles in a very small shop along the street.
I’m not at all surprised that Hin Kee has grown into a renowned brand in Zhongshan, given that he is such a talented chef.
Right now there are two outlets in the city: one is near the Morning Star Villa and the other on Caihong Road. The latter has two dozen private rooms, with a capacity for 80 tables.
The anti-graft campaign has not affected his business as his eateries serve the public rather than a dining haven for greedy civil servants.
Brother Hin, who is a righteous man, said he just knows of how to cook. Pleasing the rich or people in power is not his thing.
The dinner he served me was superb. Roasted pork belly kicked off the feast. Partridge with loquat leaves soup was refreshingly sweet, followed by two signature dishes of roasted squabs and snake soup.
Bitter melon and peanut worms in fish soup was very impressive. The worms and bitter melon slices were so crispy that you would help yourself having one spoonful after another.
And a hot pot of fish and chicken brought us to a perfect ending.
I was told that I needed to finish eating the fish before adding the chicken pieces. And they wouldn’t allow me to add ginger to the fish, or else I wouldn’t be able to enjoy the real taste of the fish.
Zhongshan folks have mastered not only the art of cooking but of dining as well.
This article appeared in the Hong Kong Economic Journal on April 29.
Translation by Darlie Yiu
[Chinese version 中文版]
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