物超所值 釀酒師眼中的布爾岡
講起法國葡萄酒的產區,總讓不少酒徒感到困惑,特別是產區分布與評級制度複雜的布爾岡(Bourgogne),幸好布爾岡葡萄酒業管理局(BIVB)閒時總會在國際間舉行活動,早前便來到香港,以「釀酒師眼中的布爾岡」為主題舉辦品酒盛會,更由布爾岡葡萄酒業管理局傳訊委員會主席Anne Moreau為大家深入淺出地介紹該區 不少性價比高之美酒。
TEXT BY MIU LAU
在品酒會上,Anne Moreau與一眾釀酒師親述了布爾岡產區的土壤、山坡、微氣候及葡萄品種的互動,成就當地獨一無二的酒釀風格。布爾岡擁有共84個法定產區,為全法國法定產區數量之冠,Anne Moreau表示︰「布爾岡被譽為最重視風土的產區,每個產區的風土(Climat)各不相同,令出品的葡萄酒風味極具多樣化。」
當中教酒徒趨之若鶩的布爾岡特級莊園(Grand Cru), 查實僅佔整個布爾岡區內葡萄酒總生產量的1%,Anne Moreau認為當中仍有很多高性價比葡萄酒值得被賞識,「除了特級莊園(Grand Cru)和一級莊園(Premier Cru)固然備受追捧之外,需知布爾岡所有的作品中,仍有較未被普及的村莊級(Village)及地區級莊園 (Régionale),實屬遺珠佳作。重點是物超所值,實為 今夏的理想酒品。」
重點關注冒起新秀
Anne Moreau指自1990年代以來,村莊級(Village)、 地區級莊園(Régionale)等所出的酒質進步不斷,「因自豪於產區的卓越聲譽,及認知到消費者的高期望,釀酒師們勤奮不斷,致力提升水平。於種植及釀造的各方面,引進各種專業知識及技術,悉心照顧每一細節,務求準確捕捉及完美呈現每一片獨特風土的精髓。」如一些鮮為人知的村莊級產區如Saint-Véran、Viré-Clessé、Givry、Montagny等,品嘗過的大多給予良好評價。
她的地區級莊園心水推介有來自Maison Joseph DROUHIN及Domaine PL et JF BERSAN兩個酒莊。「前者的Mâcon-Bussières, white, 2022, Maison Joseph DROUHIN,其葡萄園位於布爾岡南部的一片大地上,葡萄樹種植在海拔250公尺至350公尺之間,覆蓋着兩個對峙的山坡。獨特的風土特色賦予葡萄酒清新的風格,酒體散發出礦物質氣息,並伴隨白色花朵的芬芳。口感細致純淨,餘韻悠長,令人驚嘆。」而後者的Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, white, 2019, Domaine PL et JF BERSAN 同樣出色,「酒莊位於Saint-Bris-le-Vineux村莊,葡萄園位於山坡上,土壤源自侏羅紀時期。入口帶有杏仁、榛果和白花的香氣,酒香怡人;但在短時間內即變得剛勁有力,並帶有美麗的礦物氣息。」
至於村莊級(Village)葡萄酒則有深受港人喜歡的Chablis白酒,帶點蕨類植物和成熟的黃肉水果香氣 Chablis, Les 8, white, 2021, Domaine Louis MOREAU。另一款Montagny Premier Cru, Les Bonneveaux, white, 2019, Olivier LEFLAIVE亦是Anne Moreau的心水之一,「葡萄園屬於Buxy村山溝的獨特微氣候,享有充沛的日照縈繞。佳釀口感飽滿圓潤,爽朗怡人,伴隨着礦物、香料和榛子的迷人風味。」
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