DIOR MEN Fall 2024~Effortless Chic流麗衣櫥
初喜歡時裝的人都要花九牛二虎之力來打扮,只為博盡眼球,但像世間一切學問功夫,達到化境時都是舉重若輕——由Kim Jones設計Dior Men 2024秋季系列以極盡 Effortless Chic的輕鬆姿態,讓人獲得無煩惱的優雅流麗。
數男裝設計界最聰明的設計師,Kim Jones肯定名列前茅。他既充分了解當下時尚愛好者的需要,同時深入鑽研Dior的時裝屋典藏,不斷努力融會過去、現在與未來。Dior Men 2024秋季系列,又是一次成功的傳承。
TEXT BY CL PHOTO BY DIOR
從1947年至今,Dior不但擔起為貴客們提供華美服飾的責任,更代表法國高級訂製的聲譽。因此,Kim Jones在 Dior男裝部門也一直強調時裝屋的精裁工藝,亦不忘追隨創辦人Christian Dior先生對藝術的熱愛。「新系列暗帶裝飾藝術的流麗筆觸,猶如從過去窺見未來。醉生夢死的『糜爛』快感──特別是穿搭帶來的快感──亦是系列的精髓。系列要表達的是以從容不逼的姿勢,做到精簡練達的效果。」關於Dior Men 2024秋季系列這個完美體現Effortless Chic的流麗衣櫥,Kim Jones分享他的創作之道:「說到底,系列的重點是精裁工藝;亦是西裝和 Dior 對它的解讀。我們至今已從品牌昔日經典中汲取了許多養份,而自己亦累積了不少舊作可供重溫。兩者相加,使新作更添一份不經意的優雅氣度。此舉的重點不在於回顧過去,而是要將技術帶進未來──這是一個有關未來典藏庫的概念。」
如何可以做到既有古又有今?Kim Jones借鑒Dior先生和Saint Laurent先生的傑作,將昔日的高級訂製經典解構再詮釋:Dior先生為1952年秋冬系列設計的Pépite連身裙上的條紋刺繡,以及Yves Saint Laurent 1958年春夏季Jazz造型的花卉刺繡在寬鬆的開襟恤衫上綻放;系列大量運用的領帶,則靈感源自Yves Saint Laurent為1958年春夏季構思的Trapèze系列。元祖的設計輪番上場又逐一消褪,個別的單品合二為一,包括系列主打的絲瓜領西裝外套和大衣,修長的設計融入了睡袍的輕柔飄逸——昔日的典雅裝飾細節一一獲接嫁到當代流暢的剪裁中。
整個系列圍繞着西裝來開展,並不斷混和過去6年Kim Jones透過軍服款實用外衣和配飾建立的Dior Men風格,不會過分地官仔骨骨、也不會流於平庸休閒化。永不過時的色調和上乘材質,更是令人着迷。
Dior Gravity:卓越工藝新經典
除了隨性別致的服裝,Dior Men 2024秋季系列更有另一令人愛不釋手的皮革工藝新作:Dior Gravity。對男士而言,男裝袋首要為實用,但作為奢華精品,時尚別致感也是極其重要。當中的微妙之處,在於低調中見品味,讓知音人作識別就是恰到好處,Dior Men 2024秋季系列在這方面就獲得滿分。SaddleBag、大型背囊、腰包、手提袋、戶外型小手袋等款式一應俱全,配合印上兩個版本的Dior Oblique圖案皮革面料(小型皮具選用原版的比例,而男裝袋則飾以特大圖案),名為「Dior Gravity」,展現只此一家的頂尖奢華格調,亦是品牌卓越工藝的象徵。
「Dior Gravity」這一種創新超卓的面料呈現獨特的粒紋,觸感柔軟,效果細緻,柔和的用色包括米色、黑色和卡其色,讓人百看不厭。除了一系列皮具產品,包括郵差袋和旅行袋,或實用配飾,例如皮帶和卡片套外,Dior Gravity皮革更會應用於最新款B33和B27運動鞋之上,適合配搭日常造型。
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