WATCHES & WONDERS 2024︰JAEGER-LECOULTRE大師之作
近兩個世紀以來,積家(JAEGER-LECOULTRE)不斷研發精密複雜的裝置,提昇機芯的運行規律——這是精準走時的關鍵,今年Duometre多款腕錶在製錶業可是獨樹一幟。
TEXT BY LAWRENCE YU PHOTO BY 韋梏
Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
今年積家創製Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual雙翼系列三軸陀飛輪萬年曆腕錶,全新388型機械機芯進一步突破創新界限,設有全新陀飛輪裝置:圍繞三個軸旋轉的陀飛輪,配備圓柱形游絲,全新裝置由圍繞三軸旋轉的三個鈦金屬框架組成,締造「陀螺」般的視覺效果,陀飛輪由163枚零件組成,重量不到0.7克,由陶瓷滾珠軸承支撐,減少摩擦。388型機械機芯的振頻為4赫茲(每小時28,800次),進一步提昇走時的精準度更配備帶有大型日期顯示的萬年曆。
Duometre Chronograph Moon
Duometre Chronograph Moon雙翼系列計時月相腕錶以鉑金錶殼款與銅色錶盤形成矚目對比,兩款腕錶均配備手工縫製的鱷魚皮錶帶,搭配小鱗紋鱷魚皮內襯。搭載全新391型機芯的鏤空設計有兩大目的:不僅提昇美感,還具備技術方面的實用功能,讓製錶師能輕鬆組裝複雜機芯的某些零件。這正是積家將機械技術與美學風格和諧融合、相得益彰的絕佳體現。作為一款手動上鏈機械機芯,它並沒有採用上鏈擺陀來遮蓋計時碼錶的槓桿。
Duometre Quantieme Lunaire
新一代Duometre雙翼系列腕錶,包括一款經重新演繹的Duometre Quantieme Lunaire雙翼系列月相日曆腕錶。這是Duometre雙翼系列的首款精鋼腕錶,矚目的藍色錶盤與全新錶殼相得益彰,為獨樹一幟的雋永設計注入現代氣息。Duometre雙翼系統有效地將能量傳輸「分流」,一組發條盒和齒輪系為走時提供動力,另一組則驅動複雜功能,兩組系統透過單一擒縱裝置相連,無論複雜功能是否啟動,都能保持腕錶能量傳輸穩定。在6時位置持續旋轉的跳秒指針,是Duometre Quantieme Lunaire雙翼系列月相日曆腕錶錶盤上的一大特色,其設計旨在突顯機芯精準運行。
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