WATCHES & WONDERS 2024︰Ulysse Nardin新奇巧思
對當代鐘錶鑑賞家而言,雅典錶正處於前所未見的黃金時代。蓬勃創意與充滿想像力的大膽創想不斷迸發交融,將瑞士製錶的不羈之魂盡釋無遺。
TEXT BY 羅倫斯 PHOTO BY ULYSSE NARDIN
Freak S Nomad
回首2001年,雅典錶震撼推出Freak奇想腕錶,在當時盛行保守主義的製錶界掀起駭浪。此款時計大膽突破一切既定成規,採用顛覆傳統的無指針、無錶盤、無錶冠設計,內「芯」亦引入先進的高科技矽材質,可有效減輕機芯部分活動部件承受的壓力。腕錶的每個構思均淋漓展現出大膽革新的另類魅力。去年,Freak One奇想腕錶在享負盛名的日內瓦高級鐘錶大賞(Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève)中一舉斬獲「最佳標誌性腕錶」(Iconic Watch Prize)。
今年,雅典錶全新發布沙丘色Freak S Nomad奇想S行者腕錶,以風暴之勢侵入高級製錶界。新款腕錶延續無錶盤、無指針、無錶冠的設計,猶如一座腕間實驗室,釋放無盡新意。這一獨特造型歸功於品牌自製UN-251機芯的精妙構造。飛行卡羅素機芯繞其軸心自轉,兩個振盪器的矽質擺輪分別固定於兩個呈20°夾角的平面,彷彿分置於兩個發射台,通過安裝於滾珠軸承上的垂直差速器相連接。擒縱機構的表面經過高科技DIAMonSIL鑽石矽鍍層處理,更加精準耐久。機芯採用雅典錶創新研製的專利Grinder®磨床式自動上鍊系統,效率是傳統自動上鍊系統的兩倍。
機芯橋板覆以碳灰色PVD鍍層;其中,兼作分針的橋板塗覆Super-LumiNova®夜光塗層,在幽暗環境下閃爍淺藍色螢光。此款機芯共包含373個零件和33顆寶石。包裹機芯的錶殼採用45毫米直徑設計,採用先鋒材質組合打造:主體部分以鈦金屬製成,錶圈為碳灰色PVD鍍層鈦金屬材質,搭配兼作錶耳的碳纖維錶殼側翼。腕錶配備兩條錶帶,一條錶帶採用灰色壓紋橡膠材質,另一條則採用啞光灰色鱷魚皮,以鏤空設計展現沙丘色小牛皮裝飾細節。
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