8月限定雲南普洱茗茶宴
在芸芸茶的品種中，普洱茶可說是養生之首。早在《本草綱目》中就有記載普洱茶的功效，中醫認為普洱茶具有清熱、消暑、解毒、去肥膩、利水、養胃等功效，故普洱茶一直備受大眾歡迎。8月盛夏，香港麗晶酒店米芝蓮二星餐廳麗晶軒推出「雲南普洱茗茶宴」，食客可品嘗兩款普洱茶，及多款以茶入饌的點心，深入了解雲南普洱茶的文化。
TEXT BY 再思 PHOTO BY 麗晶軒
認識普洱茶
「雲南普洱茗茶宴」由餐廳行政總廚劉耀輝、主廚鄭文生及茶藝師莫嘉傑精心策劃，而鄭師傅和莫嘉傑兩人早前更遠赴雲南西雙版納同慶號茶園考察，為創作茶宴帶來靈感。茶藝師莫嘉傑先生表示：「普洱茶不僅口感醇厚，更蘊含了豐富的歷史和文化底蘊。此次與同慶號合作，到訪雲南同慶號茶園了解由種植到生產整個流程，我們精心挑選了2010年同慶號生茶和熟茶進行搭配，希望通過生熟茶風味的對比，加深客人對普洱茶文化的理解。」
茶宴由認識普洱茶開始。莫嘉傑由普洱茶的定義說起，「普洱茶是產於雲南一定區域內（西雙版納、臨滄、普洱等地區），以雲南大葉種芽葉為原料，經低溫製程（萎凋、殺青、揉捻、日光曬乾）等工序製成的曬青毛茶，再經自然後發酵工藝或人工渥堆後發酵工藝製成的散茶或緊壓茶，分為普洱生茶和普洱熟茶兩大類。」考獲中國茶藝科學學會國家中級茶藝師證書的莫嘉傑，對茶藝充滿熱情，娓娓道來普洱基本知識。
學習茗茶文化
滿足味蕾茶宴提供四款茶，迎賓茶透天香冷萃氣泡茶選用來自安溪的優質黃金桂烏龍茶，加入香港製純天然龍眼蜜，清爽的茶香與芳馥雅致的龍眼蜜完美融合，為味蕾帶來清新的體驗。與之搭配的是「脆香四重奏」，四重奏以煎炸焗的點心打頭陣，包括姬松茸雪山包、柚子蟹肉荔枝球、黑椒和牛蓮藕酥及茶燻鮑魚酥。以普洱茶煙燻過的鮑魚酥，提升了鮑魚的香味層次。個人最喜歡的是柚子蟹肉荔枝球，時令食材荔枝味道清甜，意想不到地襯托了鮮美的蟹肉。
第二款茶是同慶號2010年黃印生茶，莫嘉傑解釋生茶的特點：「普洱生茶以金黃色為主，茶性較為寒涼，口感強烈，茶湯清香，苦而帶澀，回甘悠長。花草香，水果香，蜜香味濃郁。適宜搭配以鮮味為主或蒸類的菜餚，例如清淡的海鮮或點心。是次選用的生茶屬黃印，黃印是三百年以上的古樹茶陽春嫩尖，主要成份是一芽一葉。產量稀少，品質優秀。」因此，生茶搭配了蒸煮的、以茶入饌的「點心四小碟」。「菊普黑蒜燒賣」選用菊花和普洱茶湯製作；「紫芽普洱藍蝦餃」則以紫芽普洱茶製作餃皮；「桂花帶子餃」帶有淡淡的桂花香；「玫瑰上素餃」色澤亮麗，且滲透淡淡的玫瑰花香。另一個搭配之主菜是「欖仁鴿粒脆酥盞伴鹽燒松茸」是由清淡食物過渡至濃味食物的理想之選。
第三款茶是同慶號2010年紅印熟茶，莫嘉傑指出：「普洱熟茶以紅褐色為主，茶性溫和，口感醇厚。發酵充足的熟茶，湯質濃稠水甜而滑口，宜搭配油膩、辣煎炸為主的菜餚，例如乳鴿或辣菜。」熟茶帶有其獨特的陳香，與濃味的食材搭配相得益彰。「焦香陳皮和牛餅伴繡球菌炒鹿兒島和牛」香氣四溢；「廿五年老菜脯蒸斑球岩米」選用了廿五年的老菜脯，老菜脯經過長時間的發酵和加工，味道濃郁，能夠為不含澱粉質的岩米增添獨特的風味。
最後一款茶是1992年梅江陳皮金盞花甘羅漢果茶，逾30年的陳皮，拼配荷蘭金盞花和桂林甘羅漢果，清潤可口，佐以「桂花普洱燉雪梨拼玫瑰花酥」，幽香縈繞不散。品嘗茶宴之餘，別忘欣賞茶藝師泡茶時的茶藝示範和精緻的茶具，莫嘉傑與團體都十分樂意與食客分享品茗之樂。
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